WEST. Biaggi's serves patrons well with large portions, an extensive menu, and a comfortable, convivial ambience. Local folks prize favorites like osso buco, chicken saltimbocca, pork chops al forno, seared salmon, veal marsala, and an herb-tinged NY strip. Pastas and individual pizzas also make for appetizing fare, and the wine list features Italian and domestic vintages. Service is attentive, and children are easily accommodated, as are groups. A great, anytime restaurant.

DOWNTOWN. Housed in a circa-1858 building, this charming cafe conveys European sensibility in both cuisine and decor. A zinc bar adds a touch of Parisian interest to the interior, and the ambience is invariably welcoming. The menu walks the line between Continental and Italian fare, featuring such concoctions as ostrich tenderloin in a Madeira reduction with portobello mushrooms, and four different polenta preparations including a grilled version topped with fresh tomato sauce and mushrooms. Other menu highlights are equally diverse ­ a delicate penne with prosciutto and peas, signature crab cakes, and a tender buffalo rib-eye. Amazing brunch offerings satisfy everyone ­ try one of the eggs Benedict variations, like crab cakes Benedict or artichoke hearts Benedict.

DOWNTOWN. Tucked into the space below an apartment building, this restaurant once served as the dining room for residents. Now, crisp white decor boasts black accents and features framed photos that add character to the pleasant space. The seasonal menu reflects what's fresh and available and may include poached salmon, creamy risottos, steak, and pork tenderloin infused with garlic, rosemary, and olive oil. Sumptuous desserts are worth making room for, and the ambience is subdued and quiet.

WEST. A city institution, Lombardino's has been one of Madison's most recognizable restaurants since 1952. Given to kitschy charm, the interior is a throwback to Italian eateries of past decades, a look patrons love for its unchanging character. The cuisine has also stood the test of time, as evidenced by roasted veal tenderloin, skillet-seared sea scallops, spaghetti puttanesca alla mare, and grilled black Angus filet of beef. Pastas and creative Napoletana pizzas are appealing as well.

DOWNTOWN. Comprised of a casual room with counter and table seating and a more elegant venue, distinguished by an atmospheric mural, Luigi's also offers outdoor dining and a saltwater aquarium. The comfortable place accommodates leisurely meals perfectly, and you'll feel completely at ease munching on Sicilian salmon, butternut squash rotollo with chicken, and roasted wild mushrooms over linguine. Salads and appetizer pizzas also appear, and crème brûlée makes for a sweet, light conclusion. Beer and wine are available too.